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Qursa (Small Round Flat Loaf) with Dates, One of the Dishes of the People of Ifriqiyya



Take good semolina, knead it, and make thin flatbreads of it, and cook them, but not too long so they lose their tenderness. Then crumble them very finely and put them over a moderate fire, and pour in fresh, odorless oil, and cover it with the oil. Then take good Shaddâ kh dates, [174] as much as the crumbs, and there are those who use more Shaddâ kh dates than crumbs. After cleaning them of their stones and pellicles, pound them in a mortar until they are like rose jam, and put it in the tinjir [kettle] with boiling oil. Stir it with a spoon, and when it dissolves in the oil, throw in the breadcrumbs little by little, and stir until it is blended and there is no distinction between the crumbs and the dates and they are a single mass, like a paste, then remove it from the fire, and the oil will disappear; leave it a while, then sprinkle it with sufficient cinnamon, spikenard, cloves, ginger, and galingale. Stir it with a spoon until the spices are mixed in, and pour it into a dish. Even out the bread, smooth it out, make a hole in the middle, and fill it with the butter in which it was cooked. Sprinkle it with sugar, spikenard, and cloves. Insert split almonds and fâ nî d, and serve it. According to this recipe it lasts for the space of many days [p. 66, verso] and does not spoil or change.

Tunisian Qursa (Small Round Flat Bread) According to Another Recipe

Take semolina and mix it with fresh oil, knead it like the dough for ka'k, sprinkle oil over it, and make good qursas, like sugar molds or smaller. Place in the oven, and do not overcook; then take them out, rub in a dish, and grate in the palms until it is like semolina again, and pass it through a sieve and put it aside. Then take Shaddâ kh dates cleaned of their stones and pellicles, and pound them into a paste and mix in the same amount of white, sifted flour, and add a sufficient amount of the mentioned spices, knead until it is blended and forms a single body. Then smear your hand with oil and make a qursa in the middle of the dish, and pour fresh oil over it.

Recipe for Tarfist, a Dish of the People of Fez

Knead the finest white flour, or semolina, and make flatbreads, cook them in a tannur or in the (bread) oven over a moderate fire, and crumble them small. Take skimmed honey and dilute it with the same amount of fresh water, and throw in as much saffron as will color the crumbs to the desired tint. Then throw in these crumbs and stir it until it takes body like a paste, and continue stirring. When it hardens, turn it out in a bowl after sprinkling it with plenty of split almonds, and stir it until it is mixed. Make a hole in the middle and fill it with aromatic clarified butter[175] or fresh butter, sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon, spikenard, cloves and fanid, and present it.

Recipe for Ka'k (Biscotti)

Take a mudd, by Abu Hafs's measure, of fine white wheat flour or of good semolina, and mix it with half a ratl of oil. It is good for traveling, and does not crumble, and he who wishes may eat it immediately. Put a ratl of oil or more for the mentioned mudd, and in that manner the baked taste is like that of walnut marzipan (jauzinaq) and so forth.[176]

The Preparation of Ka'k

Moisten fine white flour or semolina, according to the aforementioned rule, with oil or clarified butter, and it is more delicious and keeps better with oil, because clarified butter, when kept long, smells and becomes bitter. Pour in hot water little by little, and knead it until it is dry, and continue kneading it until it is supple and ripe, so that when a piece of it is taken and stretched [or possibly rolled] out, the stretching does not break it; and he who wishes may put in a bit of yeast, or leave it out. Then take of peeled almonds [ p. 67, recto] and sugar equal parts, and the sugar could be more than the almonds; pound this until it is like a dough, and put it in a bowl. Add spikenard and cloves in the necessary amounts, and a little mastic, and some camphor dissolved in rosewater. Knead the filling with this until it is mixed; then grease a stone work surface with oil, and make a ka'k on it with the dough, and bury the filling inside it, in equal amounts. Then clear a place in the oven, far from the fire, and place the ka'k in it on a clean slab, and leave it until it is done and ready. Take it out and make various shapes from the ka'k dough, like what is called khushkalâ n in Bougie. The khushkalâ n is another kind of dish, which will be mentioned after this. Make filled qursas (round flat loaves), small and large, and forms of birds, gazelles and the like.[177]

Preparation of Khushkalâ n

Take coarse semolina and rub it with plenty of clarified butter and fresh oil. Soak it in a little water, and do not handle it too much, lest the dough be dry. Then make flatbreads filled with the filling described for ka'k, and diverse shapes. Cut them with shears or a knife, and shape them into rings and semicircles, ka'k and small and large flatbreads This is the true khushkalan. Then fry it in fresh oil, take it out, and sprinkle it with spikenard and ground sugar.

Preparation of Khubaiz (Little Bread) that is Made in Niebla

Take good wheat, put it in a washtub, and cover it with good, fresh water. Change the water after two or three days so that the wheat softens and makes talbina [releases its starch into the water], as is done for starch. Then remove the water and press with the feet in the bottom of a rush basket, or by hand if there is only a little of it. Sieve into a bowl what comes out of the pith. Then pour a little fresh water over the wheat bran to wash it. Squeeze it until none of the pith remains. Put all this in a bowl and leave it in the sun until it binds together. Strain from it the flour water that is left over, time and again, until it thickens. Then pour it in a cloth and hang it so that it drips until it dries, and expose it to the sun if you want to make starch. This is the recipe for starch. Do not let it get near dew or it will spoil. When the khubaiz has been made, take some of it before it dries -- it will be like yogurt -- and beat it with your hand until it is smooth. If you wish, dissolve dry starch in fresh water so that it comes out according to this description, and make from it.
Then put a frying-pan over a moderate fire, and when it has heated, smear it with a cloth soaked in oil. Then take some of the dissolved starch with a spoon and pour it in the frying-pan. [p. 67, verso] With your hand, move it around in the pan so that it stretches out thin. When it has bound together and whitened, take it to a board or a cloth and grease the frying pan with oil. Pour in another large spoonful until you have a sufficient quantity. Leave it on the cloth in the sun until it dries. Then put it in a rush basket or a sack, and beat it all over so that it whitens until it forms crumbs the size of grains of wheat, or a little larger.
Then put a frying pan full of fresh oil over a moderate fire. When the oil is boiling, put in fresh cheese while the oil boils. Remove it right away in a sieve so it does not burn and drain off the oil. Have prepared filtered skimmed honey, thickened in a pot on a weak fire. Leave it on the hearthstone so that it remains fluid. Every time you take this khubaiz from the frying-pan, drain it of its oil and throw it into this melted honey, and overturn the cheese into it with a spoon, adding to it little by little, and stir it with a spoon until they are mixed one with the other, it hardens and forms one mass, and remove it.[178]

[179]Recipe for Mishâ sh

Soak semolina or fine flour with fat or oil, knead it exceedingly well with some leavening and add water little by little. The dough should be dry. Knead exceedingly until it is slack, and stretch [roll out] a piece of it over a salâ ya (stone work surface) greased with oil, and with your thumb spread on it fresh fat from a sheep or a goat, cleaned of its membranes and dissolved in some oil until it becomes like brains or butter. Roll it thin until it covers the surface of the rolled-out piece. Then envelope with another, roll it out, smear it with fat like the first one, and roll it out. Then cut it into triangles or circles and squares, then put the frying-pan over a moderate fire with enough oil to fry in, and fry until done. Drain the oil and float them in rose syrup or clean honey.

Another Mishâ sh

Take clean semolina, or fine flour, which is better, and mix it with plenty of fat, in the amount of one ratl to each small mudd. Knead it like ka'k dough and roll out small round loaves (qursas) in oil. Don't overdo the frying. Place it in hot, clean honey, in which shelled walnuts and sugar, both pounded coarsely, have been put, and leave it there until the honey enters with the sugar and the nuts in their foliation. Remove from the honey. The walnuts and coarse sugar will remain. It is a type of mishâ sh [p. 68, recto] and there should be no spices in it.[180]



Another Variety of It

Make a filling of almonds and coarse sugar, without putting in any spices or roots but only rosewater and camphor so that it remains white. Then make little round flatbreads of the described dough and put on this filling another little round flatbread. Fold over the edges and pinch with a ka'k press so that it sticks, then fry it gently in oil, and place it in rose syrup.

Preparation of Jauzî naq (Walnut Marzipan)

Take some of this dough described for ka'k and of the mentioned filling, and shape it [viz. the filling] like hazelnuts, little walnuts, little ka'ks, the description of a necklace [or chaplet] of pomegranates, and farthalat. This is what is called " the Qadi's ears." It is made to resemble roses and other flowers, rings, and so on. All being thus filled, bury some of that filling inside each piece [of dough] and prick it finely. Then fry it in a clean frying-pan with fresh oil, and take it out immediately. Place it in a strainer like a palm, [181] drain the oil and float the fat in skimmed honey, or in julep syrup or mastic syrup, and take it out.

[182]Preparation of Qâ hiriyya

Take a ratl and a half of white sugar, dissolve it in a little water, put it over a gentle fire, skim off the scum and? filter [" milk" [183]] it. Then throw in peeled, pounded almonds in the amount of two ratls, and stir all this until it forms a single body and its fat is softened. Then take it out and leave it a while and add spikenard, cloves pounded in rosewater, and a little camphor, knead all this until it dries, and give it the shape of large or small ka'ks, and leave it until it dries a little. Then place in starch that has been dissolved in a dish and a bit coagulated, and leave it until it dries. Then put it in the frying-pan with fresh oil and fry it so it soaks in it, leave it a little and take it out so it will not dry out or spoil. Then place it in a syrup of roses, or julep, or clarified honey.

Oven Qâ hiriyya

Take the filling described for making ka'ks, and stiffen it with fine flour or starch [" wheat dust or starch dust" ]. Knead it with spices and a little camphor dissolved in rosewater, and make as many ka'ks as desired from it. Line them up on a slab and place it into the oven, and leave them a little until they bind, and take them out. This is the tastiest there is among these sorts of dishes.

Sun-Dried Qâ hiriyya

[p. 68, verso] Take one part of finely pounded almonds and one of white sugar. Pound all this in a stone or wooden mortar until they are mixed, and add cloves, ground spikenard dissolved in rosewater, and some camphor, according to the usual quantities for ka'k and as may be desired. Then immerse in starch dissolved so that it is runny, and put it on a board or large tray and leave it in the sun until the starch dries up.

Qâ hiriyya Which is Called Sâ bû niyya

Pound almonds very well and add them to the same amount of sugar, and add spikenard, cloves, some camphor, and musk dissolved in rosewater. Pound all this in a wooden mortar until it is mixed and smooth. Then roll out ka'ks and small flatbreads and pieces shaped like walnuts and hazelnuts. Leave it a while and then submerge it in sugared rose syrup and thickened julep, and take it out. Submerge it a second time, and a third, and leave it until it dries and separates. It is good, magnificent, and it used to be made in Marrakesh.

[184]Sanbû sak

It used to be made in Marrakesh in the house of the Prince of the Believers, Abu Yusuf al-Mansur, God have mercy upon him. Take white sugar and dissolve it and " milk" it with rosewater. Then put in almonds pounded like dough, and stir it gently until it is combined and becomes like the filling of a qahiriyya. Then take it from the fire, and when it is lukewarm, put in spikenard, cloves, a little ginger, and a small amount of mastic, after first dissolving these ground spices in rosewater in which has already been dissolved some camphor, musk and cut almonds. Beat all this and knead it until one part blends with the other, and make qursas of the size of ka'ks and farthalâ t and make balls in the shape of oranges and resembling apples and pears, until the sanbû sak is used up. It is delicious, and it is called sanbû sak in the East, and it is the sanbû sak of kings.[185]

Sanbû sak of the Common People

It is made in three ways: one in which a thin flatbread is filled with crushed garlic and spices. It is folded into a triangle and fried in oil. Another is made with mixed dough beaten with pounded meat, spices and eggs. Another is made in the form of farthalâ t and fried and presented. Another is made with dough kneaded with clarified butter or melted fat. With it you make farthalâ t, and you don't fry it but leave it raw. And this is good to throw in isfî dhbâ jat[186] and stuffed things.

Recipe for Abbasid Qatâ if

[p. 69, recto] It is made from the pierced musahhada that has already been mentioned. Take peeled almonds, pound them and let them dry until they are like semolina. Add as much again of sugar, spikenard, cloves, and Chinese cinnamon. Then take a flatbread (raghî f) of the aforementioned musahhada, free of burns, and sprinkle it with those almonds and ground sugar aplenty. Sprinkle it with rosewater in which some camphor is dissolved, and fold it until it is a half circle. Glue the edges with dough wetted in rosewater, and put it in a frying-pan full of fresh oil. Boil it, and then take it out immediately and remove it so it drains of the oil. Let if float in a syrup of roses or julep or skimmed honey. You might make raghî fs on raghî fs, filled inside, and glue the margins together, and they will turn out circles and halves.[187]

The Dish Ghassâ ni

Take a ratl of meat, without bones, from a fat sheep. Cut it and put it in a pot. Cook also a white tafâ yâ , and when the meat is done, throw in four ratls of clarified honey and a ratl of peeled, pounded almonds. Color with saffron and pour on half a ratl of oil, and stir over a gentle fire until the cooking is done, and pour it into a dish and sprinkle it with minced sugar and ground Chinese cinnamon.


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