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Preparation of Sugar Qursas



Take good sugar and dissolve it in a little water. Put it on a gentle fire and leave it to boil until the water dries up. Then dribble it over marble and measure it. When it has stiffened, take it from the fire and add ginger, galingale, spikenard, clove and ground, dissolved mastic. Stir it and then throw over a greased marble small qursas (round flat loaves) and let them be until they cool and become solid. For him who wants it musky, dissolve some musk and camphor in good rose water and cut it [the candy] with this at the end, when it is removed from the fire and cooling. It improves [or perfumes] the breath, warms the stomach and helps digest food.

Preparation of Fâ nî d (Pulled Taffy)

Take white sugar and dilute it with a moderate amount of water, neither too much nor too little. Put it on a gentle fire. Remove the scum and clean it. Continue cooking until it binds moderately. Then take it from the fire and when it has cooled a little, take it with your hand and pull it as you do with pulled honey sweet, until it whitens and you like the whiteness. If you see that it is drying out between your hands and isn't yet as white as you would like, put it near the fire until it softens and continue doing it (the pulling) and putting it near the fire until you are pleased with its whiteness. He who wants it musky, dissolve some musk and camphor in good rose water and sprinkle the sugar with it and lubricate your hands in this rose and musk water while you pull it little by little, until the musk and camphor penetrate it. It will turn out excellently... [p. 74, recto] Then make ka'ks and qursas (flat loaves) and shapes similar to maftû na and fists (ma'asim) and whatever shape you want. Set it on a slat in the air to cool and dry and set it aside.[196]

Sukkariyya, a Sugar Dish

Take a ratl and a half of sugar and throw in rosewater and water to cover. Stir it and pound it. Clarify it with a sieve in a ceramic [hantam] vessel and add an û qiya of honey for each ratl. Take a ratl of peeled white almonds and cut them into thirds and quarters. Return it to the fire, cook it until it coagulates, and take it to a platter which has been greased with almond oil and roll it out on a marble sheet. Cut it as you will. Dust it with sugar and do the same with pistachio, pine nuts and walnuts. And test it to see whether it takes them. And throw it on the salâ ya (stone work surface)...[some five words missing]...thin and it is very good. Then make with it what you may want. If you want it with camphor and aromatic spices, grind whatever of them you want and sprinkle them over it, if God wishes.

Excellent Fâ lû dhaj

Pound sweet almonds like brains and add fresh water. Pass this through a fine sieve until it becomes like milk. Then take a quantity of pomegranate juice, sour or sweet, like the water taken from...[words missing]...of the juice of sour and sweet pomegranate or juice of tart apples, or pear juice, or quince juice or juice of roasted gourd-whichever of this you may have-and take as much as all this of sugar and white honey. Put it all in an earthenware pot. Light under it a gentle fire and throw in, after boiling, some starch. When it begins to bind together, add drops of almond oil (fat). Light under it a weak fire until it coarsens, and it becomes like thickened khabî s. Take it from the fire and use it, if God wishes.

Making of Elegant Isfunja (" Sponge" )

You take clear and clean semolina and knead it with lukewarm water and yeast and knead again. When it has risen, turn the dough, knead fine and moisten with water, little by little, so that it becomes like tar after the second kneading, until it becomes leavened or is nearly risen. Take a small new jug, wet it in water and then in clarified butter or fresh oil until it is soaked. Then take a fat reed. Cut off a length to reach to the bottom of the pot. Grease the reed with oil and put the lid on the pot and seal (the lid to the pot) with clay with the reed inside, and put it in the oven with bread, and let it be in the middle of the bread. When the bread is done, know that it (the " sponge" ) is also ready. Take it out, remove the clay and take out the reed. Take fresh or clarified butter and honey. Heat them [p. 74, verso] and pour them into the pot in the place where you removed the reed and leave it until the " sponge" soaks it up. When it has absorbed it, add butter or honey until it soaks up more. Then break the pot away from it, put it on a platter and cut it as you would cut watermelon. Chop almonds and walnuts and pine nuts and pistachios and lump white sugar and sprinkle it over it...[about two words missing]... with cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon or the like, if God wishes.[197]

[198]Preparation of Qursas

Take very white flour and knead it with milk, salt and yeast. And when you have kneaded it considerably, leave it until it rises. Then take one egg or several, according to the quantity of the dough. Break them in a bowl and beat them. Moisten the dough with them little by little and knead it until it slackens. Take a new frying pan and shower it with clarified butter or fresh oil. Take a handful of the dough and spread it in the pan. Put over it a layer of almonds and pistachios, or whichever one you have. When the almonds cover the dough, put another dough on the almonds, and so on, layer on layer. In this way you fill the frying pan up to two fingers (from its rim). Put it in the oven with the bread and when it is done, prick it with a knife and take it out as it is. Heat honey and clarified butter and pour over, and when it has soaked them up, throw it on a platter and sprinkle over it Chinese cinnamon and cinnamon and serve it, if God wishes.

Elegant Qursa

Take semolina and fine flour, in the same manner as ka'k, with clarified butter or with oil, and let its weight be about a ratl. Take ten eggs and beat them in a bowl and add them to the dough little by little. Knead it with them until it becomes like tar. Lay hold of an earthenware stewpan (cazuela, qaswila) the same size above as below. Let clarified butter and fresh oil run over it and empty the dough into it. Leave it until it rises and put it in the oven. When it is done, cause there to be in its highest part tubes like embattlements. Cut that to those tubes with a little of its body and let it/them be like a pot lid. Then make a large cut in the qursa with a knife. Heat honey with butter and scatter in it spikenard, cinnamon, chinese cinnamon, chopped almonds, walnuts and pine nuts and pistachios, or one of the two, however much you want of them. Let the qursa absorb that, put the lid back on and serve it, if God wishes.[199]

[200]Stuffed Qanâ nî t, Fried Cannoli

Pound almond and walnut, pine nuts and pistachio very small. [p. 75, recto] Knead fine white flour with oil and make thin breads with it and fry them in oil. Pound [sugar] fine and mix with the almond, the walnut and the rest. Add to the paste pepper, cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon and spikenard. Knead with the necessary amount of skimmed honey and put in the dough whole pine nuts, cut pistachio and almond. Mix it all and then stuff the qananit that you have made of clean wheat flour.

Its Preparation

Knead the dough well with oil and a little saffron and roll it into thin flatbreads. Stretch them over the tubes (qananit) of cane, and you cut them [the cane sections] how you want them, little or big. And throw them [into a frying pan full of oil], after decorating them in the reed. Take them out from the reed and stuff them with the stuffing and put in their ends whole pistachios and pine nuts, one at each end, and lay it aside. He who wants his stuffing with sugar or chopped almond, it will be better, if God wishes.[201]

[202]Preparation of Juraydâ t, Small Locusts

Take bread from white semolina, take it outside and put it in the sun until it dries. Grind it and sieve it, soak it in oil and leave it a day and a night. Throw on thickened honey, after scattering on it, and knead it with pepper and enough spices to make it into round hazelnuts [or meatballs], God willing.

Ka'k Stuffed with Sugar

Knead the amount that you want of fine flour and knead a long time. Leave it until it rises and then pound almonds very fine until they are like brains. Grind with an equal amount of white sugar and knead the two parts with some rosewater and perfume it with fine spices. Roll the dough out long and put on the stuffing and cover with dough. Make it round and make ka'ks with it. Send it to the oven and, if you want, fry it in the frying pan with oil and scatter sugar on top. He who wants it simple, let him omit the spices.

Ka'k of Sugar Also

Take two parts sugar and another two of peeled almonds. Pound [the almonds] very well and smoothly and sieve the sugar over them. Add enough water to knead it and of fragrant spices whatever you may want, such as clove, musk or nutmeg. Make ka'ks with this paste. Dilute starch in water in a thin solution, without salt, and leave it in the leavening until it rises [or sours]. Then pour in honey and beat it smoothly. Then dip the ka'ks in it, one after the other. You will have prepared hot oil or almond oil in the frying pan. Turn them into it to fry lightly and take them out hot. You will put it in syrup of julep [p. 75, verso] or of honey. Then you roll them, after removing them, in minced sugar, if God wishes.

Cast Figures of Sugar

Throw on the sugar a like amount of water or rosewater and cook until its consistency is good. Empty it into the mould and make of it whatever shape is in the mold, the places of the " eyebrow" and the " eye" and what resembles the dish you want, because it comes out of the mould in the best way. Then decorate it with gilding and whatever you want of it. If you want to make a tree or a figure of a castle, cut it piece by piece. Then decorate it section by section and stick it together with mastic until you complete the figure you want, if God wills.[203]

Fruit Made of Sugar [Marzipan]

Add one part of sieved sugar to one part of cleaned and pound almonds. Knead it all with rose water and roll your hand in almond oil and make with it whatever you want of all fruits and shapes, if God wishes.

[204]Preparation of What is known as Fustuqiyya of Sugar

Take half a ratl of sugar and three û qiyas of almond oil, two of fine flour and three of pounded pistachios. Cook it all together on the fire until it binds together and cut it with musk and clove, if God wishes.

[205]Preparation of Kashkâ b

Take bread made from semolina and put it in a pot of clay or earthenware, and put it in the oven in which you leave it until it rises. Then throw it in water or honey according to the sweetness you desire and leave it until it moistens nicely. Then forcefully squeeze it with your hand until you remove all its moistness. Put it to one side. Sieve the water with a thickly woven kerchief of clean linen and put it in a rapacious [sic] vessel...[words missing]... and put in it rue cut in pieces, if God wishes, may He be praised.
Here ends what has been found in this compilation, line by line. God bless our lord Muhammad, his Family and his Companions and grant them great peace. It was finished halfway through the morning of Saturday, 13th of Ramadan of the year 1012 [14 February 1604].[206]

[Added section on medicinal drinks and preparations]

In the name of Allah, the Merciful, the Compassionate; the blessings of God on our lord Muhammad, his Family and his Companions, and grant them peace.


Chapter One: on Drinks

The Great Drink of Roots

Take the skin of the stems of fennel, the skin of the stems of celery, the skin of the roots of carrot and...[three words missing]... chicory and Mecca fig, [207] half a ratl each; three handfuls each of halhâ l (lavender? ), cilantro of the spring [i.e., water source], dawmirâ n, [208] tamarisk, pennyroyal, ghâ fit, chicory, mint, clove basil and citron basil; two û qiyas each of the seeds of celery, carrot and roses, fennel, and habba hulwa and nâ nû kha [two names for, or perhaps two varieties of, nigella seed], and half an û qiya of dodder seed. The bag: half an û qiya each of cinnamon, flowers of cloves, ginger, Chinese rhubarb, Indian spikenard, mastic, nutmeg and aloe stems, a mithqâ l of saffron, six ratls of honey, cleansed of its foam. Cook the herbs and seeds in water that covers them until their force comes out; then take the clean part of it [strain it] and throw it in honey. Put this on the fire, and leave the spices in the bag after they have become mushy, throw them into the drink and macerate them time after time, until their force passes into the drink. Lay it aside and take it from the fire, let it cool, and keep until needed. Drink one û qiya of this with three of water on arising, and see that the water is hot. Benefits: fortifies the stomach and the liver, opens blockages of the liver and spleen, cleans the stomach, and is beneficial for the rest of the phlegmatic ailments of the body.[209]


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