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Note on Thickened and Coated Dishes



Recipe for Zî rbâ ja[10]

It is a dish that regulates the humors; its nutritive power is praised, it is good for the stomach and liver; it combines the advantages of the meat and vinegar stew sikbâ ja[11] and of that of sour milk salî qa. Among its virtues is what was told of it to the sheikhs of Baghdad by him who followed Hanin ibn Ishaq; he said " I was accompanying Hanin one day until his meeting a man of the people, to whom he said, 'Oh! You came to me and you described the case of a sick woman in your house; then I didn't see you. What has been the cause of your delay, since I have not ceased to worry about you? ' He replied, 'I came to you, my lord, and I described to you my mother's sickness. You advised me that she should eat zî rbâ ja; I got it and she was cured of her illness, and I didn't want to return and worry you. May God reward you.' Hanin said, 'This is a neutral dish [viz. one that does not stimulate any of the four humors in particular] and it is the sikanjabî n [name of a sweet-sour drink] of dishes.' Others say, 'It is the apple of the kitchen, there is no harm in it at all.'"

Its Recipe

Take a young, cleaned hen and put it in a pot with a little salt, pepper, coriander, cinnamon, saffron and sufficient of vinegar and fresh oil, and when the meat is cooked, take peeled, crushed almonds and good white sugar, four û qiyas of each; dissolve them in rosewater, pour in the pot and let it boil; then leave it on the embers until the fat rises. It is the most nutritious of dishes and good for all temperaments; this dish is made with hens or pigeons or doves, or with the meat of a young lamb.

Recipe for Kâ fû riyya, a dish made with camphor

Get a young hen or young pigeons or doves. Clean as many of these as you have, split their breasts and put them in the pot with salt, a little onion, pepper, coriander and fresh oil; cook until it is seasoned and then thicken it like dough with almonds, peeled and ground, dissolved in rosewater; then leave it over the hearthstone and squeeze into it the juice of two or three lemons (lî ma), depending on the degree of acidity desired, and dissolve with some camphor dissolved in rosewater. And do not squeeze the lemons at cooking-time, for this will make it bitter, but rather after putting it on the hearthstone. And leave it a while.

Maghmû m, The Veiled Dish

Make it with a chicken or meat of a goose or young pigeons. Take what you have of this, cleaned, and place it whole in a pot, as it is, the breast split, with salt, oil, a little onion, pepper and coriander; cook it halfway, take it out and put it in another pot and pour into it the clear part of the sauce, murri naqî ', saffron, lavender, some citron leaves and thyme; put into the fowl two or three striped lemons and sprinkle them with peeled, split almonds; cover the mouth of the pot with dough and place it in the oven, and leave until it is ready, and serve it: it is very nutritious and proper for moist stomachs.

The Making of Mu'affara Dusted which is Also Called Munashshiya[12] Starched

Take a cleaned, cut-up hen; put it in a pot with salt, a little onion, pepper and coriander and cook it halfway. Then take it out and remove the meat of the breast and the thighs and pound it gently, like meatballs; add to it lavender, Chinese cinnamon and pepper; beat with some egg and " starch" [yunashshâ ] the breast and legs with this, and seal with it all the parts of the chicken; then fry it in a frying pan with fresh oil until it is browned; then return it to the pot and add vinegar, oil, and a very little bit of murri, saffron, pepper and lavender, and sprinkle it with split almonds and cover the pot with plenty of beaten egg, as much as is proper. Put on it whole egg yolks and take it down to the hearthstone, leave it there a while, and use it. It is also made in a frying pan, and it comes out supremely excellent.

Recipe for Murû ziyya[13]

It is one of the dishes of Africa and the country of Egypt. Take a cleaned hen, cut it up with what is mentioned for zî rabâ ja, and when it is done, add " cow's eyes" [prunes] infused in vinegar and oil, and also jujubes and split almonds, and you might make it thickened it with peeled, pounded almonds.

Recipe for Ja'fariyya

Take a fat, cleaned hen. Cut it up and put it in a pot with salt, an onion, dry coriander, pepper, saffron, vinegar and some murri naqî ' and split peeled almonds. Cook it until it is done. Then cover it with beaten egg, much saffron, lavender and Chinese cinnamon. Then remove the fire from under it and put on the pot lid and build a fire (there) until its upper part browns, and keep the bottom from the heat.[14] It is called ja'fariyya because of the quantity of saffron it has. It looks like ja'fari gold [the purest grade of gold]. It is also said that a certain Ja'far invented it and called it by his name.

Recipe for Jullâ biyya, a Dish with Julep [Rosewater Syrup][15]

Take a cleaned chicken and remove the neck, leaving it whole and not cutting it up. Cook white tafaya and when it is done, take it out of the pot and leave it aside until it is dry. Then take three ratls of white sugar and dissolve it in rosewater and cook syrup of julep (sharâ b al-jullâ b) from it in a kettle, and perfume it with lavender, Chinese cinnamon, cloves, and ginger. When it is thick, cut it with some musk and camphor dissolved in good rosewater. Then put in the chicken already spoken of and cover it so the julep fills it and thickens on it. Then remove the kettle and leave it until the syrup of julep [sharâ b mujallab; literally, " juleped syrup" ] thickens on the sides of the chicken and becomes thoroughly cooked, as if it were a citron. When it is completed according to this recipe [or description], put it on a damascene dish [? bâ qiya] and present it with a complete range of garnishes.

The Making of Rafî ', a Fine Dish

Take a very plump hen and put it in a pot with pepper, coriander, cinnamon, lavender, vinegar, a little murri naqî ', plenty of oil, and five spoonfuls of rose syrup. Put it on a moderate charcoal fire and cook it until the chicken is done and its broth comes out; then remove it and set it aside. Then take tender, pounded meat, pounded peeled almonds, ten eggs, cilantro juice, juice of a pounded onion, lavender, ginger, cinnamon, saffron, oil, rosepetal jam and split almonds, beat this all together and cover the pot with this after adding meatballs made for it. Dot this with ten or more whole eggyolks and then put the pot in the oven and leave it until it is bound. Take it out and let it cool a little and use it. And if you wish you may make it in a tajine.


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