Bringing Your New Puppy Home

The

CANAPUS

Saluki Guide

Breeding Policy

Our breeding policy is simple – we breed for type, soundness, health, conformation, good temperaments, athletic ability and beauty. We only breed from those of our bitches who have the qualities we want to pass on to future generations.

We select stud dogs who are either line-bred or out-crossed who epitomize the best saluki qualities, health and bloodlines. We only choose top quality stud dogs with a pedigree carefully matched to our own bloodlines.

We hope that you will be very pleased with your new puppy who has been very carefully and lovingly bred and reared from healthy parents. We have made every effort to reduce the risk of hereditary conditions in our breeding stock but no warranty can be given as to the future soundness of the puppy.

Our puppies are given as much socialization as possible from an early age. Salukis puppies need to be gently introduced to virtually everything they will encounter in later life: washing machines, vacuum cleaners, cars, bicycles, trains, sheep, cows, horses, street markets, children, other dogs – everything you can think of.

 Much of how your puppy grows and what kind of adult he or she will become is down to you. The love, care and attention you put into rearing your puppy will repay you big rewards in the future when your dog becomes an adult. The correct exercise, food and regular socialization all accounts for how happy in mind and body your dog is and also how closely bonded your dog is with you in the future.

First and Foremost - a word about temperament. Salukis adults are generally not extrovert by nature. They are a primitive breed and did not survive for thousands of years by being overtly curious or friendly to strangers. Their general nature is to be aloof with people they do not know and are only accepting on their own terms. However, most puppies do not exhibit this reserved temperament when very young and if they are socialized well from the time you bring your puppy home and you maintain a strategy to keep your dog socialized throughout its adolescence and into adulthood you will enjoy the company of a wonderful companion who you can take anywhere. Your commitment to your saluki does not end after puppy socialization but should continue throughout their life. Gradually, if training is not maintained from time to time, the saluki will revert to their characteristically introvert nature.

You have to be enthusiastic and also be prepared to put in a lot of work whilst the puppy is young. Remember it is up to you to teach the dog to be well behaved and a pleasure to take out in public. An investment in training during the early days will be well worth while later on. If you think you need extra expert guidance during the early days or when your dog is older, we are always available to give you advice. We strongly recommend that you join a puppy socialization group and carry on with some gentle behavioural training or ring-craft throughout the first few years of life. This helps maintain your dog’s socialization while teaching worthwhile skills and basic training.

To sum up: The handling is now up to you. Training should always be reward based, offering a treat when your puppy or adult exhibits desired behavior. Never handle a Saluki roughly, no matter how frustrated or angry they might make you at times. Avoid situations that make your dog very stressed or fearful. They can gradually be taught to overcome their fears but never force a Saluki to do something it really doesn’t want to do. Your dog should never be fearful of you and always feel safe in your company.

Show Puppies - Important. Please remember that whilst we will give every assistance to any owner trying to select a puppy for the show ring, it is extremely difficult at 7-8 weeks of age to predict precisely how the same puppy will look at four years old! Your commitment to good food, socialization and proper exercise will all make a substantial difference in addition to the basic genetics that have been inherited by your puppy.  For this reason, therefore, we cannot guarantee that even the most promising show prospect as a baby will turn out a top winner. Rearing, training, handling and presentation in the show ring by the new owner will, without a doubt, make or break a prospective show dog.

Toilet Training

We allow all our puppies to have free access to an outdoor area directly outside their whelping room from the age of 5 weeks. For toilet training they start off with newspaper on the floor of their room and as they start to have regular access outside they learn from their mother that they should use outside as their toilet area. They quickly learn to go outside and simultaneously we reduce the area of newspaper until they are clean indoors. However, lapses do occur – sometimes they are just too busy playing to remember that they should go out and just squat where they are. Young puppies cannot wait to go out, their need is immediate, so mistakes may happen indoors when they are young.  Once you take your puppy home, they no longer have their mother and littermates to emulate and may not be sure of what you expect of them, or where to go, so be sure to take them outdoors at regular intervals. You should accompany your puppy outside and if necessary, put your puppy on lead and walk with them in the garden to make sure they relieve themselves. If you just shove them outdoors and hope for the best you may find a mess on the floor shortly after they come back indoors! Be sure, the moment they wake up, after feeding, every 3 hours or so throughout the day and evening and before going to bed, to take your puppy outside to an area you want them to use and give them a verbal command, such as “Be Quick”. Repeat the command every  time your puppy relieves itself and they will soon associate the command with the action. When they are older it is a very useful tool as they will perform on command before taking them on a car journey, for example. Make sure you toilet train on hard surfaces and on grass. If your puppy only learns to go on one type of surface they may often not relieve themselves at all on other types of surfaces when away from home for an entire day or more!

Try to make all your puppy’s learning experiences fun while instilling a sense of security. If your puppy gets frightened by something new it is best to try to ignore it and act totally naturally, By making a fuss of your dog or picking them up to cuddle it is reinforcing their fear. However, never let your puppy struggle when its on a lead. If they start to pull away from you ALWAYS walk towards them, do not try to pull them towards you. A gentle tone of voice may be all that is required to restore calm and when they relax a little give them praise and a tasty treat. (Always carry some treats with you – you never know when you might need them! ). Only if the puppy is very frightened and struggling to get away on lead is it necessary to pick them up. Your embrace will give them added security and prevent the possibility of them escaping. However, you must strike the right balance and it is best to reassure your puppy by speaking to him. Sometimes it is enough to reassure them by slipping your hand under the collar to hold them securely. Salukis can learn a fairly large vocabulary and your commands, tone of voice,  facial expression and calm assertive energy are the necessary tools to train your puppy.  If you constantly reassure your puppy by picking it up you will create a dependent, fearful animal who does not cope well in a variety of circumstances.

Security –

We recommend at LEAST a four foot high, strong fence around your garden, or at least around the part where your saluki will spend most of his time. Chain link fencing must be secured at both the top (so that it doesn’t sag down) and at the bottom (so that the puppy cannot dig under). Timber of a size of 3”x1” at the top and bottom of the netting, stapled securely, will prevent escape effectively. We have found by experience that it is useless having an existing 3’ high fence which the puppy quickly learns to scale and then trying to add on bits to increase the height. The dog will just learn to jump higher and higher. If a secure 4-5’ high fence is established from day one, you will have no problems with your puppy escaping.

Generally speaking, salukis who are given a happy environment, correct exercise and who get mental stimulation love to be in their own homes and will not attempt to escape. However, some salukis are jumpers and particularly if you have something very interesting to chase after on the other side of the fence this will only encourage your saluki to attempt to get to the other side. If your saluki is not getting adequate exercise or is unhappy they will try every means of escaping and are veritable Houdinis. Keep your hound fit and active to keep them happy.

Salukis are sighthounds and have a need to see beyond their immediate surroundings and territory. If you enclose them in an area, either indoors or outdoors, where they cannot see out they are likely to become destructive. Do this at your peril! You can use baby gates indoors so they can see through to the other side but if you close them in a room they cannot see out of they may become distressed. Out of doors, a picnic table makes an ideal perch from which to view their surroundings. By nature, salukis tend to want to be at the highest vantage point available and sofas are no exception.

Puppies and adolescents can be destructive if left to their own devices. Put your valuable things out of reach to be on the safe side.  Fluffy toys can be fun but can be de-stuffed in minutes and they may not differentiate between a fluffy toy and your sofa or mattress, so think about the types of toys you provide. Kitchen tables and counters should never have food or medications left accessible as it provides early training to a saluki who will quickly learn to thieve off these surfaces.  Try to keep all your puppy’s activities and encounters positive and not teach them bad habits from the outset.

Exercise

The saluki is a slow maturing breed. This means that at one year of age your puppy will have attained his full height and during the next 2 years he will put on more body substance. Salukis are still adolescent up to about 2 ½ - 3 years of age. The long bones are soft and do not harden until after the age of 2. Too much running, road work or the incorrect type of exercise will leave the bones and joints permanently damaged. While your dog may look mature and may seem self-assured as a two year old, do not be deceived. At around 2 ½ - 3 many salukis develop an independent streak and the once biddable puppy can become headstrong and decide to go off on its own or be naughty in other ways. As before, when rearing and training your puppy you should engage in activities with your adolescent that are enjoyable, that help cement the bond you have already established and that provide some form of mental stimulation. Full maturity does not occur till age 3 – 4.

Salukis are highly intelligent and have endless physical stamina. Mental stimulation will tire your dog out much more easily than any other form of exercise. A balanced combination of activities will make for a happy saluki. If you always walk the same route your saluki may become bored so it is a good idea to go to new areas or engage in new activities. Salukis can participate in shows, agility, coursing, racing and obedience and all these disciplines can be utilized to stimulate the mind, provide exercise, training, socialization and for you to have an enjoyable time with your hound.

It is important to understand the do’s and don’ts of exercising your saluki. Young puppies up to the age of about 6 months require no formal exercise regime. They will run and play throughout the day with periods of high activity followed by deep sleep. When playing with other young dogs they often don’t know when to stop so it may be necessary to curtail their fun if you think they have had enough. You can take them on lead for short walks of about 20 minutes to get them used to walking on lead. If your puppy sits down during a walk it indicates they are tired. You should pick them up and carry them. If you walk too far, it can be a long journey home carrying a heavy puppy! Don’t over-do anything with a young dog. While you need to take them out for socialization, walking in street markets, city centres or woodland, keep these outings fairly brief.

Once they are about 6 months old you can gradually increase their walking time to about 45 minutes combined with free running in a safe environment. As they mature you can gradually increase their activity level but DO NOT take them on long hikes until after the age of 2. You need to wait until the long bones have solidified and they susceptible to damage before that time. Long walks, competitive racing or lure competition are not desireable activities for salukis before the age of about 2. They can, of course, have practice runs during this period but should not endure regular hard training

Life Stages

Your puppy will be about his full height at the age of about 1 year. By 18 months of age he is like an 8 year old child and by the age of 2 he is like a 10 - 12 year old. At 3 years of age he is a teenager. He is only mature when he is about 4 years old. Looks can be deceiving so if he starts playing up and misbehaving at about 3 years of age you will know why. This is also why it is important to keep up some form of training. He might be impeccably behaved as a 2 year old but get other ideas by the time he’s 3. You may need to vary his activities at this age and provide some additional mental stimulation

Crates

There recently seems to be a fashion for keeping dogs in crates in the home. We strongly disapprove of keeping salukis in crates at any time other than for safety reasons, when travelling in the car or at a show. Dogs are happier when freely moving about with their owners and we believe it is cruel to confine them to a small space, for hours at a time, on a regular basis. However, it is a good idea to have a crate available with the door left open that they get used to going into from an early age. That way, if you have to crate your dog for a short period they will not become distressed. By nature, they can find a crate a secure place to be, like a den, so they can be content to be crated for short periods if necessary.

If you are think you will have to crate your dog for long periods of time then please don’t buy a Saluki as they are not a suitable breed for being left in crates for long periods of time.

Cars

NEVER leave your saluki in the car on a warm day, even with the windows slightly open. Cars heat up incredibly quickly and act like ovens. Your dog can die or suffer permanent internal damage from being left in a hot car.

Bicycles and Joggers

Both activities may be very provocative to a saluki.  A jogger may seem threatening – in the wild another animal does not advance directly at speed unless they are a predator – so your saluki may bark at them. Both cyclists and joggers run away, so the natural behavior of the saluki is to chase them. Teach your saluki from an early age that bicycles and joggers are not prey items to be chased. Reinforce this constantly throughout their lives.

General Behavioural Advice

Salukis are a sensitive breed and may not deal with all situations without becoming stressed. It is important that your saluki understands you and that you and your family are consistent in what you expect of your dog. All family members need to learn to project a calm, assertive energy so they are all viewed by your dog as the pack leaders. Dog trainer, Cesar Millan explains: “The first energy that a puppy experiences after birth is mom’s calm assertive energy. Later the puppy will follow a pack leader who projects the same calm, assertive energy out of association. As pack followers, dogs return a calm submissive energy that completes the pack balance. It is important to understand that most dogs are born to be submissive, because there can only be so many pack leaders.

“When a naturally submissive dog lives with a human that does not lead, he or she will attempt to right the pack balance by filling what they see as a vacant pack leader roll. This is how behavior problems develop. We must remember to reward a calm, submissive state, and to not nurture unwanted energy, like anxiousness or fear. Additionally, though, we must be consistent in our own energy.

“Just as a dog with no clear rules can become unbalanced, a dog whose human has unbalanced energy can become confused and anxious. It the human is exhibiting anger or fear or another weak energy state, the dog will sense that, and react in one of three ways. He will either try to correct it, avoid it, or mirror it. If the human is constantly going back and forth from calm to anxious to calm to angry and so on, the dog will have no idea what he is supposed to do and will act out unpredictably as well. To establish yourself as the pack leader, you must always project a calm, assertive energy. This natural balance (calm, assertive leadership with calm, submissive behavior) nurtures stability and creates a balance, centered, and happy dog.”

Feeding Advice:

What to Feed Your Puppy

This is the subject of much debate in the dog world.  Vets will almost always recommend that you feed a complete, dry food. The main reason is that inexperienced owners may not feed a balanced diet and the puppy may end up with a health problem due to an incorrect diet or too many supplements. Dry food has all the required nutrients and vitamins your dog requires but in our opinion it is lacking the most vital ingredient of all: fresh, natural, raw energy that cannot be replicated in processed food. In the wild, dogs hunt and kill their own food. To our knowledge dogs have never learned how to cook! It begs the question why so many people feed dogs every day on food that is not natural for a dog and yet are careful about their own.

We give our puppies and adults a variety of foods including raw and cooked meats, vegetables, fruit, pasta, bread, potatoes, rice, yoghurt, cottage cheese, eggs, hard cheese and a variety of other foods. Most dogs enjoy a varied diet or at least some additions to their staple, daily food. The foods to be avoided, which are toxic to dogs, are grapes, raisins and chocolate.

Adults: All our own dogs are fed on raw, minced beef, raw minced chicken and green (unwashed) tripe mixed with Royal Canin Club Trad dinner (made with dehydrated pasta, rice, vegetables and dry meat kibble) which has been soaked in hot water or gravy. Frozen tripe, minced chicken and minced beef in ½ kg packages are available from supermarkets, pet stores and dog food suppliers store or butcher may be able to supply you. You can store a quantity of meat in your freezer and defrost the required amount each day.  

Green tripe is rather smelly to deal with, however it is, in our opinion, one of the very best things you can feed your saluki, particularly a young puppy - PLUS the dogs love it!. However, we have to consider some alternatives if you don’t have a ready source of green tripe.

Other foods: Looking at some modern convenience foods, it must be remembered that with some of these diets your dog may well need his teeth cleaning regularly as they do not require any chewing effort. They may present a perfectly balanced nutritional diet but we believe that our dogs find this type of food boring if fed monotonously day after day. It is always important to remember that no matter how convenient they are to feed, they are all processed food and do not contain the natural energy and nutritional value provided by raw foods.

Vacuum sealed cooked meats and brawns. Usually packed in large plastic sausage shaped roles about 2lb in weight and offered in a variety of flavours. Our dogs have tried these and we found them fairly good, if a little ‘mushy’. Chop up and serve with soaked meal as above.

Tinned dog meats. The better quality brands are very good, but do steer clear of the cheap sloppy type as these seem to go straight through and come out a similar consistency at the other end!. You will have to feed more tinned meat than fresh meat on a weight for weight basis as they seem to contain a fair amount of water. At least 2 x 12oz tins will be required to keep weight on an adult. Mix with soaked meal as before.

DO NOT BE AFRAID OF OVERFEEDING. IF THE PUPPY CLEARS UP ALL THE FOOD AND LOOKS FRANTICALLY FOR MORE THEN IMMEDIATELY GIVE HIM MORE FOOD AND INCREASE THE AMOUNT AT THE NEXT MEAL. WE DO NOT BELIEVE THAT YOU CAN OVERFEED A PUPPY. THEY WILL EAT WHAT THEY NEED.

We prefer to see puppies who are carrying some extra body fat, though not more than about 10% as the extra weight will start to affect the bones and joints. If they are “well covered” they have something to grow into and if your puppy should become ill for any reason they will have some extra fat stores to rely on. A thin puppy can fade away very quickly.

If your puppy engages in frantic licking of your face he is usually trying to tell you he is hungry. In nature this is what the puppy does to its mother to make her regurgitate food. It is very flattering to think that your puppy just loves you a lot but the reality is that he is trying to tell you something!

FOUR MEALS DAILY

BREAKFAST 7.00 - 8.00

Milky meal: Warm about  300ml of goats milk with a large knob of butter and 2 -3 teaspoons of honey.  Mix in 1 whole Weetabix,  Pap & Go, Brinta, Farley’s Rusks or Ready-brek. Make sure the butter is melted and the porridge is not overly thick. The mixture should  be at body temperature when served.

Alternative breakfasts: Rice Pudding served at body temperature

Scrambled egg mixed with goats milk and butter. Add a slice of diced wholemeal bread. Soak    the bread in the mixture, cook and cool before serving.

LUNCH 12 noon approx

Tinned Pedigree Puppy (about ¼ can) mixed with Royal Canin Junior (about 1 cupful).

Many salukis, but not all, like tinned sardines and one full tin along with the oil can be mixed with a slice of diced toast or Royal Canin Junior.

TEA 5.00 - 6.00pm

Meat meal: 75gr of RAW minced green tripe AND 75gr of RAW minced or diced chicken or beef mixed with Royal Canin Club Trad which has been soaked in hot water or gravy for about 45 – 60 minutes.

Once or twice each week substitute an organ meat (heart or liver) for the chicken or beef.

SUPPER 10.00-11.00pm

Rice Pudding, Farley’s Rusk and Milk, Scrambled egg with wholemeal bread OR tinned Pedigree Puppy (about ¼ can) mixed with Royal Canin Junior (about 1 cupful).

Scambled egg can be made in advance and allowed to cool.

FRESH WATER SHOULD ALWAYS BE AVAILABLE!!

 

As the puppy gets to about 4 months of age they may not want porridge any longer. You can substitute whatever is convenient in the morning - dry food, toast, eggs, etc. so they have something for breakfast. We give all our dogs, breakfast regardless of age. As puppies get a little older eliminate one meal and by the age of about 12 – 18 months you can feed just twice a day. Bonios, large square biscuits, shapes, chews etc can be given at any time if desired, but remember that if the puppy is full of snacks you cannot expect him to be hungry at meal times.

Quantities

As a rough guide, when your puppy is about 6 months of age they can have about 1 – 1 1/2 cups of Royal Canin Junior mixed with ¼ can of tinned food or 125grams of raw meat for one meal or the equivalent of other food. Puppies can have growth spurts when they demand extra nutrition so the guideline of 1 ½ cups can be increased when necessary to provide enough to keep him satiated without becoming overweight. Adults have about 2 – 2.5 cups of dry food (after soaking) with 125 -  200grams of raw meat for dinner. They should have organ meat about once a week. If your saluki is doing a lot of running they need more protein and if they are less active the protein can be reduced. Remember to assess your dog every few days and add or subtract a small volume of food accordingly. If the coat is dry or losing its shine you can drizzle a generous teaspoon of sunflower oil (not olive oil) on their food each day.

Finally on feeding ~ a word about bones

We give our salukis bones to eat provided they are the non- splintering type - i.e. beef knuckle bones, chicken wings and necks). We avoid feeding long bones, like thigh bones, or tiny carcass bones that may get caught in the throat. The digestive system of the dog in designed to digest RAW bones only. They cannot digest cooked bones which are also prone to splintering. NEVER give cooked bones of any description. You can substitute any meal by feeding chicken wings. For young puppies, cut a whole wing into the 3 separate joints and just feed the smallest two joints. Initially the puppy may throw it in the air, pounce on it and decline to eat it. After a day or two when it gets the idea to eat it, there is no substitute in their eyes for the real thing. Large dogs can be fed the whole wing.  2 – 3 whole wings constitutes a complete meal for an adult dog with all the protein, fat, calcium, vitamins and minerals in one neat package provided by nature.  Bones are also very helpful for cleaning teeth and will remove plaque effectively. We are great advocates of feeding dogs naturally and if you are interested please ask us for advice. You can find many books on the BARF diet which explains how to feed this way. Salukis can also enjoy lightly steamed vegetables, fruit, cottage cheese, yoghurt

Salukis also occasionally like to graze on rough green grass and this usually has the effect of making them sick! We never stop them from eating it, provided it hasn’t had any chemicals sprayed on it, as they seem to know if or when they need it.

Weight: We already mentioned that we like to see puppies well covered, carrying a little bit of extra weight. As your dog matures and grows into himself you will need to adjust the amount of food accordingly. There is no hard and fast rule about food quantities as each dog is different and expends or requires differing amounts of nutrition. Look at your dog at least every 3 days to assess his weight and condition and adjust his food intake accordingly. A mature saluki in good condition should show the outline of the last 3 ribs. This is not to say that the ribs should protrude, only that you can see their outline when viewed from behind. You should also be able to see the outline of the 2 pin bones of the hips. If these areas are well-covered and the outline is not discernible just cut back a little on the quantity of food given each day until he is back to the right weight again. Never allow your saluki to become obese. If he is looking too skinny increase his intake accordingly.

Bowls A 10” diameter Stainless Steel bowl is a good size for an adult to feed from.

Worming Your puppy will have been wormed at least three times before you collect him or her. You will need to worm him again at least once or twice (particularly whilst young), so consult your own veterinary surgeon when you attend for inoculations and he will prescribe the correct tablet. We recommend Drontal or Drontal Plus as some of the other compounds seem to cause upset tummies or are not as effective.  It is useful to worm adult salukis on a regular six-monthly basis, whether or not you suspect there are worms present.

Vaccinations: We have usually had the first two main inoculations against Distemper, Hardpad, Parvo-virus, Leptospiosis,  etc. already administered by the time you collect your puppy. A third vaccination is required at 14 weeks of age. The Pet Passport will have all your puppy’s details recorded including the type of vaccine used. You should have your vet administer the same brand of vaccine when it is required.  We booster again at 1 year old and do not believe, from the scientific evidence currently available, that it is necessary to boost your dog again annually. Current veterinary advice is to boost once every 3 years except for leptospirosis. Unless your dog goes swimming in rivers or runs on farm land this may not be necessary either. Despite the cost, we prefer to have our vet take a blood sample and do an antibody titre test to determine the antibody level rather than boost indiscriminately. Do not be persuaded to boost your Saluki every year. It is absolutely not necessary, unless there is an outbreak of one of the serious canine diseases in your area. Your vet will miss the money but you will not be over-vaccinating your Saluki. If in doubt whether to boost or not have a titre test done and it will tell you if your dog’s anitbodies are too low or not.

Until such time as the puppy has completed all his course of inoculations he will have to these diseases and therefore care should be taken out of the confines of your own home or garden. Your puppy should be carried and not allowed to walk in public areas where a lot of dogs frequent  until fully vaccinated. Only allow your puppy to be introduced to dogs you know to be full vaccinated. It is important during this period to do some ‘Car Training’ and take your puppy out for short drives to get him used to the car and seeing new and strange things.

Teeth Around 16 weeks of age the first set of baby teeth will slowly be shed and the second permanent set will come through. As the dog gets older there will be a tendency for the teeth to gather deposits of brown plaque around the base close to the gums. To prevent decay try to keep this removed before it has a chance to build up into hard stone-like deposits. Large knuckle bones and cow hooves are very good for cleaning teeth and will also provide hours of amusement.

Toe Nails Keep an eye on these as long nails can cause extreme discomfort if untrimmed. Ask your vet to cut them if you are afraid to do so yourself. Alternatively some dog groomers will offer this service. Also watch out for stones, mud and chewing-gum! compacted in the hair between the toes as this can become very painful if left untreated. Salukis are generally very sensitive about have their feet handled and some can even scream when getting their nails cut! To try to ensure they are not over-sensitive as adults we get them used to having their feet stroked and gently handled when young. You should make an effort to stroke or massage your dog over its entire body so it gets used to being handled and no area becomes off-limits for you to touch.

 

Grooming For regular grooming you need the following tools:

Nylon / bristle mixture brush – medium size

Slicker or Pin brush – the 6cm x 4cm head has fine metal tines. Use a “soft” version sold for cats

 Hound Glove for finishing

We use Mason-Pearson (Junior size) nylon/bristle mixture brushes for grooming. These are manufactured for human use and are obtainable from good department stores or shows. They are expensive at around £ 35 plus but a worthwhile investment as they are particularly effective. A thorough brushing once or twice a week will keep the coat and skin in good condition. Use a fine metal- tined slicker brush for the ears and other feathering. Always hold the ear leather and tail while combing through the feathering to prevent the skin being pulled when grooming and never allow matts of hair to accumulate. A final brush over with a hound glove or chamois all over the body will remove any loose hairs.

If your Saluki has a very dense coat use a Furminator to remove any undercoat and dead or loose hairs. When the weather changes Salukis can shed, though not as profusely as heavily coated breed. Even on a fine-coated Saluki, a Furminator will take out most of the loose hair. Salukis have thin skin so work gently with this tool and do not go over the same area too many times. Often black Salukis a little need more attention to their coats as they have twice the number of hair follicles per square centimeter compared to the other colours.

Your puppy’s first bath should be a fun experience but it should be accomplished with some speed so the puppy doesn’t get bored or panicked by the process. We usually don’t bathe for the first time till they are about 6 months old and only bathe when necessary or about every 4 - 6 months. If you can put your puppy in a bathtub with an extendible shower hose this is the easiest method. Have two people, one at the front to keep him steady and occupied and one at the rear to start washing. Try feeding treats while the puppy is being shampooed to keep him distracted. Use warm water and start wetting the hind legs and quarters before moving to the belly, front legs and finally the back. If you use a horse shampoo or baby shampoo they produce a low suds level so rinse out quickly. Use a facecloth to clean  the muzzle and top of the head. Never spray water onto the inside of the ear. Always apply a conditioner – either human or a dog preparation and rinse thoroughly out of the coat before towel drying. Dry the head and ears thoroughly before moving on to dry the rest of the body.  Be sure to dry the ears well as dogs can get a chill from leaving their ears wet. Plan to bathe your dog early in the day so he can run outside to dry if the weather is warm. If not, you can gradually get him used to being dried with a hair drier, but ensure the heat is on low and do not concentrate the air flow on one area, but keep it moving over the dog. Your puppy should be thoroughly dry before the evening when the weather turns cooler.

If your dog gets muddy when out walking or running you can pop them in a bathtub and just hose off the muddy parts and towel dry.

Ear Cleaning Check your dogs ears regularly. Any wax build up should be gently removed using a veterinary ear cleaner. Black material may indicate an t infestation of ear-mites or a yeast infection. These conditions are not to be ignored. If they persist after using a standard ear cleaning product, see your vet. Dogs should not scratch or shake their heads excessively at any time. If they do it usually means an ear irritation of some kind needs attention.

Exercise There is no need to exercise your puppy before all inoculations are completed as natural playing in your home and garden will be enough. After completion of all inoculations, the puppy can be gradually lead trained and taken for short walks. This is more to socialise than to exercise. Build up the distances very slowly leaving longer walks for when the puppy is well over six months of age. Salukis can become very thin as a result of over-exercise as youngsters. Do not allow them to over-exercise. When they are having fun they often don’t know when to stop so be mindful of how much energy they are expending when having a good time. Don’t allow them to exhaust themselves.

 

Free Exercise From the age of six months or so, your saluki will need some free galloping off of the lead in a safe open space. Salukis are running hounds and take no greater pleasure in life than running free. They also need to gallop to open up their heart and lung room and burn off excess energy.  Do remember though that salukis can cover a huge area in a short space of time, so be sure you are far away from roads or in a safe, enclosed area.

Never, ever let your dog off lead on or near a road. A cat or other object can catch their attention and they can be under the wheels of a moving car in seconds. Always pick up after your dog no matter where you are! Always carry a plastic bag in your pocket and spare ones in the glove compartment of your car. Don’t allow your Saluki to be anti-social. If they bark at other dogs turn swiftly in the other direction and give them a sharp command. Nip bad behaviour in the bud. It is easier to teach them good behavior from the outset than trying to correct bad habits. Don’t excuse a puppy any bad behavior because “its cute” – no hand biting or other activity that is undesirable in the longer term should be allowed.

Most of the above is second nature if you are an experienced dog owner, but if this is your first puppy please take note as there are quite a few ‘anti’ dog people around these days and we do not want to add more ill feeling towards our pets. They need to share our homes and our general environment so try to rear your dog to be a socially acceptable Saluki.

Collars and Leads For very young puppies, an inexpensive, lightweight puppy collar and lead will suffice to begin with, then later, a leather hound collar is ideal. There are also specialist hound collars that are designed to prevent your saluki backing out of them. We supply these through our own manufacturing company so please enquire if you are interested.

If you are having problems with your youngster pulling on the lead we recommend the use of a lightweight, nylon harness called a Lupi which is available on-line through the Company of Animals. These have proven to be invaluable even for strong dogs that pull a lot when they suddenly become controllable in a Lupi.  Of course, you need to work on your dog’s training to walk to heel properly in the first place, but Lupis can be a valuable tool. Do not use head collars (Haltis) on salukis as they hate them and will do somersaults to try to get them off..

Insurance there are many companies offering medical pet insurance. It is a personal decision whether to have this or not. Generally speaking Salukis are a healthy breed and policies will not cover vaccinations, teeth cleaning, pregnancy and a myriad other things. Excesses can also be high but so can vet’s fees if your dog has an accident. At the very least make sure your dog is covered for 3^rd party liability through your household insurance policy.

Kennel Club Registrations All puppies bred here will be registered with the Kennel Club and sold with full pedigrees which will be given to you at the time of purchase. They will also be microchipped and have a pet passport. Some puppies may need their final vaccination when you bring them home, depending on their age.

Breeding It is most definitely NOT essential to breed from your bitch for “the good of her health”, and certainly not to satisfy your children’s curiosity about having a litter of puppies. If you are thinking about breeding then please contact us and we will explain some of the essentials.  Most of all remember that every Saluki born needs a permanent loving, understanding home and those are not the easiest to find. Every puppy brought into the world is the life-long responsibility of the breeder so it is a big commitment to decide to breed a litter.

Accidental Mating: If your bitch ever does get mated unintentionally DON’T PANIC! -telephone your veterinary surgeon as there is an injection that you can have that will almost always prevent the unwanted litter. However, there are health risks associated with this injection so do your utmost to prevent your bitch getting mated in the first place.

Neutering - Don’t! We do not recommend either spaying a bitch or castrating a dog unless a health problem warrants it. If neutered the coat of your saluki will change from the normal shiny silky texture to a very woolly dry and long bushy coat in almost all cases. Spaying a bitch also seems to cause incontinence problems later in life. Hormone injections are available to prevent bitches coming into season and implants are available for males which provide a chemical castration. Usually both methods are fairly safe but we do not recommend using them for dogs under 2 years of age as they are hormonal treatments which may affect your dog in other ways. Always be advised by a trusted vet when using these medications.

Much better to make sure your garden is secure with proper strong fencing so your females can’t escape or jump over them and males can’t dig their way in.

Beds Oval plastic beds of 30 inches long or larger are ideal for salukis of both sexes. For young puppies and adolescents who are still at the chewing stage a double thickness of Vet Bedding is ideal to provide a cushioned base and is machine washable. When they have out-grown the chewing stage you can use a cushioned pad with a piece of Vet Bedding over top.

Bathing Our own dogs are all bathed from about the age of six months.  It has never had any adverse effect on their general health - in fact we are often complemented on the shiny condition. We do not use any special shampoos, just very good human ones, but we always use a cream conditioner afterwards which keeps the coat lying correctly and makes them smell nice too!. You can gently blow dry with a hairdryer whilst brushing with the lie of the coat, or keep giving the dog a brush as he dries naturally.

Two Puppies We do not recommend that you take on two small puppies at the same time - unless you have previous experience. This is because it is much easier to obedience and house train one puppy at a time. Also two puppies will tend to run off and play together, ignoring you, making them difficult to catch. We would recommend that the first puppy be at least 12 months old before you take on another.

Please keep in touch It is always interesting for us to see how our puppies turn out when adult and we love to see photos. We have given them the best start in life and trust that you will rear your puppy into healthy, happy adult and give him a great life. It is very rewarding for us to see that our puppies have grown up to be loved as an important member of your family and are well adjusted adults.

Minor Problems Remember if you have any problems or concerns connected with your saluki or queries on dogs in general, please do not hesitate to telephone us. We are always available to provide advice by phone or e-mail.

IN CASE OF DIFFICULTIES All our puppies are sold with a proviso that you never sell or pass your Saluki  on to another person or organization. Even though you are sure at the moment that your puppy will never need a new home, occasionally domestic circumstances do change and there may be a time when you are no longer able to keep your dog. If this happens to you we insist that your dog is not kenneled or passed on to a third party. Please contact us and we will arrange to take your saluki back to our home. We may decide that he will live out the rest of his life with us or if we have a suitable, very experienced home where he will fit in, we may rehome him. We will always do what is best for your dog so if the worst happens do not hesitate to contact us. If you ever lose our address you can always trace us through the internet www.saluki.nl  or via the Kennel Club (Canapus Salukis or Felix van der Drift) or email through our website:  www.saluki.nl  or www.diamonddogs.eu ( our business site which has our contact information).

And finally when you lose your best loved friend Over the years we have come to meet many families who have just had to face the death of their previous dog. Usually they feel bad about even thinking of replacing their much loved pet and constant companion with another young puppy.

When you find yourself in this position try to think of your next puppy not as a ‘replacement’ - for he never will be - but as a new young personality and member of the family.

Past experience has shown that we can guarantee you will love him for a whole host of new and different reasons within a very short time.

The

CANAPUS

Saluki Guide

Breeding Policy

Our breeding policy is simple – we breed for type, soundness, health, conformation, good temperaments, athletic ability and beauty. We only breed from those of our bitches who have the qualities we want to pass on to future generations.

We select stud dogs who are either line-bred or out-crossed who epitomize the best saluki qualities, health and bloodlines. We only choose top quality stud dogs with a pedigree carefully matched to our own bloodlines.

We hope that you will be very pleased with your new puppy who has been very carefully and lovingly bred and reared from healthy parents. We have made every effort to reduce the risk of hereditary conditions in our breeding stock but no warranty can be given as to the future soundness of the puppy.

Our puppies are given as much socialization as possible from an early age. Salukis puppies need to be gently introduced to virtually everything they will encounter in later life: washing machines, vacuum cleaners, cars, bicycles, trains, sheep, cows, horses, street markets, children, other dogs – everything you can think of.

 Much of how your puppy grows and what kind of adult he or she will become is down to you. The love, care and attention you put into rearing your puppy will repay you big rewards in the future when your dog becomes an adult. The correct exercise, food and regular socialization all accounts for how happy in mind and body your dog is and also how closely bonded your dog is with you in the future.

First and Foremost - a word about temperament. Salukis adults are generally not extrovert by nature. They are a primitive breed and did not survive for thousands of years by being overtly curious or friendly to strangers. Their general nature is to be aloof with people they do not know and are only accepting on their own terms. However, most puppies do not exhibit this reserved temperament when very young and if they are socialized well from the time you bring your puppy home and you maintain a strategy to keep your dog socialized throughout its adolescence and into adulthood you will enjoy the company of a wonderful companion who you can take anywhere. Your commitment to your saluki does not end after puppy socialization but should continue throughout their life. Gradually, if training is not maintained from time to time, the saluki will revert to their characteristically introvert nature.

You have to be enthusiastic and also be prepared to put in a lot of work whilst the puppy is young. Remember it is up to you to teach the dog to be well behaved and a pleasure to take out in public. An investment in training during the early days will be well worth while later on. If you think you need extra expert guidance during the early days or when your dog is older, we are always available to give you advice. We strongly recommend that you join a puppy socialization group and carry on with some gentle behavioural training or ring-craft throughout the first few years of life. This helps maintain your dog’s socialization while teaching worthwhile skills and basic training.

To sum up: The handling is now up to you. Training should always be reward based, offering a treat when your puppy or adult exhibits desired behavior. Never handle a Saluki roughly, no matter how frustrated or angry they might make you at times. Avoid situations that make your dog very stressed or fearful. They can gradually be taught to overcome their fears but never force a Saluki to do something it really doesn’t want to do. Your dog should never be fearful of you and always feel safe in your company.

Show Puppies - Important. Please remember that whilst we will give every assistance to any owner trying to select a puppy for the show ring, it is extremely difficult at 7-8 weeks of age to predict precisely how the same puppy will look at four years old! Your commitment to good food, socialization and proper exercise will all make a substantial difference in addition to the basic genetics that have been inherited by your puppy.  For this reason, therefore, we cannot guarantee that even the most promising show prospect as a baby will turn out a top winner. Rearing, training, handling and presentation in the show ring by the new owner will, without a doubt, make or break a prospective show dog.

Bringing Your New Puppy Home

We always recommend that you have everything prepared at home beforehand. On the day you are going to collect your puppy we like you to come in the morning and just stay briefly before heading for home. You should use the better part of the day to let your puppy explore his new surroundings, especially where he is going to eat, sleep, play and relieve himself. You will need two people in the car to collect your puppy, as we encourage you to hold your puppy on your lap on the way home and not put him in a crate. With a blanket to cover your lap, let him get accustomed to being in the car and hold him gently to begin your bonding experience in a positive fashion. Puppies may feel insecure in this new environment and by holding them you can help instill a sense of security. Oftentimes puppies may feel motion sickness and if they are crying try holding them upright to look over your shoulder to the rear of the car. Open a window slightly so they can breathe fresh air. Recycled or air-conditioned air is not the same as fresh air to a dog. Do not let your puppy roam around loose in the car. Do not stop to let your puppy out on the journey – many puppies will try to escape at this precise moment - they are unsure of you and their surroundings and will not come to you when called.

When you arrive home immediately take your puppy to a safe area where they can relieve themselves and give them a drink of water – car journeys are very dehydrating for dogs.   If your puppy has a good experience on this first car journey they quickly become accustomed to traveling with you in the back of the vehicle. If they are crated on their first journey they are likely to be insecure and may continue with a fearful behaviour associated with car journeys going into adulthood. A few Salukis suffer from car sickness when young. You can try giving 2 drops on their tongue of Bach Rescue Remedy just before starting off on a journey as this often helps.

You will have to decide where you puppy is going to sleep. If this is your only dog he is going to be extremely distressed if you shut him up in a room on his own. Remember, he has been in the nest all his short life and suddenly you are abandoning him all on his own with no warmth or comfort from his mother or his litter-mates. We do not recommend that this is the best start in life for a young puppy.

You can decide to have him sleep on your bed and gradually move him into a bed or crate or you can start the puppy off sleeping in a dog bed or crate in your bedroom. Put a warm blanket or vet bedding into the bed along with a soft toy to cuddle, something to chew on and a heating pad under the vet bedding. Puppies will usually sleep straight through the night, especially in a dark room. Be sure to introduce your puppy to this room and his bed long before bedtime so it is not new and strange when it is time to go to bed. Once your puppy is older and finds places in the house he likes to sleep, you can move the bed or crate out of your bedroom, as you prefer.

Toilet Training

We allow all our puppies to have free access to an outdoor area directly outside their whelping room from the age of 5 weeks. For toilet training they start off with newspaper on the floor of their room and as they start to have regular access outside they learn from their mother that they should use outside as their toilet area. They quickly learn to go outside and simultaneously we reduce the area of newspaper until they are clean indoors. However, lapses do occur – sometimes they are just too busy playing to remember that they should go out and just squat where they are. Young puppies cannot wait to go out, their need is immediate, so mistakes may happen indoors when they are young.  Once you take your puppy home, they no longer have their mother and littermates to emulate and may not be sure of what you expect of them, or where to go, so be sure to take them outdoors at regular intervals. You should accompany your puppy outside and if necessary, put your puppy on lead and walk with them in the garden to make sure they relieve themselves. If you just shove them outdoors and hope for the best you may find a mess on the floor shortly after they come back indoors! Be sure, the moment they wake up, after feeding, every 3 hours or so throughout the day and evening and before going to bed, to take your puppy outside to an area you want them to use and give them a verbal command, such as “Be Quick”. Repeat the command every  time your puppy relieves itself and they will soon associate the command with the action. When they are older it is a very useful tool as they will perform on command before taking them on a car journey, for example. Make sure you toilet train on hard surfaces and on grass. If your puppy only learns to go on one type of surface they may often not relieve themselves at all on other types of surfaces when away from home for an entire day or more!

Try to make all your puppy’s learning experiences fun while instilling a sense of security. If your puppy gets frightened by something new it is best to try to ignore it and act totally naturally, By making a fuss of your dog or picking them up to cuddle it is reinforcing their fear. However, never let your puppy struggle when its on a lead. If they start to pull away from you ALWAYS walk towards them, do not try to pull them towards you. A gentle tone of voice may be all that is required to restore calm and when they relax a little give them praise and a tasty treat. (Always carry some treats with you – you never know when you might need them! ). Only if the puppy is very frightened and struggling to get away on lead is it necessary to pick them up. Your embrace will give them added security and prevent the possibility of them escaping. However, you must strike the right balance and it is best to reassure your puppy by speaking to him. Sometimes it is enough to reassure them by slipping your hand under the collar to hold them securely. Salukis can learn a fairly large vocabulary and your commands, tone of voice,  facial expression and calm assertive energy are the necessary tools to train your puppy.  If you constantly reassure your puppy by picking it up you will create a dependent, fearful animal who does not cope well in a variety of circumstances.

Security –

We recommend at LEAST a four foot high, strong fence around your garden, or at least around the part where your saluki will spend most of his time. Chain link fencing must be secured at both the top (so that it doesn’t sag down) and at the bottom (so that the puppy cannot dig under). Timber of a size of 3”x1” at the top and bottom of the netting, stapled securely, will prevent escape effectively. We have found by experience that it is useless having an existing 3’ high fence which the puppy quickly learns to scale and then trying to add on bits to increase the height. The dog will just learn to jump higher and higher. If a secure 4-5’ high fence is established from day one, you will have no problems with your puppy escaping.

Generally speaking, salukis who are given a happy environment, correct exercise and who get mental stimulation love to be in their own homes and will not attempt to escape. However, some salukis are jumpers and particularly if you have something very interesting to chase after on the other side of the fence this will only encourage your saluki to attempt to get to the other side. If your saluki is not getting adequate exercise or is unhappy they will try every means of escaping and are veritable Houdinis. Keep your hound fit and active to keep them happy.

Salukis are sighthounds and have a need to see beyond their immediate surroundings and territory. If you enclose them in an area, either indoors or outdoors, where they cannot see out they are likely to become destructive. Do this at your peril! You can use baby gates indoors so they can see through to the other side but if you close them in a room they cannot see out of they may become distressed. Out of doors, a picnic table makes an ideal perch from which to view their surroundings. By nature, salukis tend to want to be at the highest vantage point available and sofas are no exception.

Puppies and adolescents can be destructive if left to their own devices. Put your valuable things out of reach to be on the safe side.  Fluffy toys can be fun but can be de-stuffed in minutes and they may not differentiate between a fluffy toy and your sofa or mattress, so think about the types of toys you provide. Kitchen tables and counters should never have food or medications left accessible as it provides early training to a saluki who will quickly learn to thieve off these surfaces.  Try to keep all your puppy’s activities and encounters positive and not teach them bad habits from the outset.

Exercise

The saluki is a slow maturing breed. This means that at one year of age your puppy will have attained his full height and during the next 2 years he will put on more body substance. Salukis are still adolescent up to about 2 ½ - 3 years of age. The long bones are soft and do not harden until after the age of 2. Too much running, road work or the incorrect type of exercise will leave the bones and joints permanently damaged. While your dog may look mature and may seem self-assured as a two year old, do not be deceived. At around 2 ½ - 3 many salukis develop an independent streak and the once biddable puppy can become headstrong and decide to go off on its own or be naughty in other ways. As before, when rearing and training your puppy you should engage in activities with your adolescent that are enjoyable, that help cement the bond you have already established and that provide some form of mental stimulation. Full maturity does not occur till age 3 – 4.

Salukis are highly intelligent and have endless physical stamina. Mental stimulation will tire your dog out much more easily than any other form of exercise. A balanced combination of activities will make for a happy saluki. If you always walk the same route your saluki may become bored so it is a good idea to go to new areas or engage in new activities. Salukis can participate in shows, agility, coursing, racing and obedience and all these disciplines can be utilized to stimulate the mind, provide exercise, training, socialization and for you to have an enjoyable time with your hound.

It is important to understand the do’s and don’ts of exercising your saluki. Young puppies up to the age of about 6 months require no formal exercise regime. They will run and play throughout the day with periods of high activity followed by deep sleep. When playing with other young dogs they often don’t know when to stop so it may be necessary to curtail their fun if you think they have had enough. You can take them on lead for short walks of about 20 minutes to get them used to walking on lead. If your puppy sits down during a walk it indicates they are tired. You should pick them up and carry them. If you walk too far, it can be a long journey home carrying a heavy puppy! Don’t over-do anything with a young dog. While you need to take them out for socialization, walking in street markets, city centres or woodland, keep these outings fairly brief.

Once they are about 6 months old you can gradually increase their walking time to about 45 minutes combined with free running in a safe environment. As they mature you can gradually increase their activity level but DO NOT take them on long hikes until after the age of 2. You need to wait until the long bones have solidified and they susceptible to damage before that time. Long walks, competitive racing or lure competition are not desireable activities for salukis before the age of about 2. They can, of course, have practice runs during this period but should not endure regular hard training

Life Stages

Your puppy will be about his full height at the age of about 1 year. By 18 months of age he is like an 8 year old child and by the age of 2 he is like a 10 - 12 year old. At 3 years of age he is a teenager. He is only mature when he is about 4 years old. Looks can be deceiving so if he starts playing up and misbehaving at about 3 years of age you will know why. This is also why it is important to keep up some form of training. He might be impeccably behaved as a 2 year old but get other ideas by the time he’s 3. You may need to vary his activities at this age and provide some additional mental stimulation

Crates

There recently seems to be a fashion for keeping dogs in crates in the home. We strongly disapprove of keeping salukis in crates at any time other than for safety reasons, when travelling in the car or at a show. Dogs are happier when freely moving about with their owners and we believe it is cruel to confine them to a small space, for hours at a time, on a regular basis. However, it is a good idea to have a crate available with the door left open that they get used to going into from an early age. That way, if you have to crate your dog for a short period they will not become distressed. By nature, they can find a crate a secure place to be, like a den, so they can be content to be crated for short periods if necessary.

If you are think you will have to crate your dog for long periods of time then please don’t buy a Saluki as they are not a suitable breed for being left in crates for long periods of time.

Cars

NEVER leave your saluki in the car on a warm day, even with the windows slightly open. Cars heat up incredibly quickly and act like ovens. Your dog can die or suffer permanent internal damage from being left in a hot car.

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